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How to set up a Jackson Kayak for expedition style paddling: make
it possible to remove (almost) all the outfitting with only a
multi-tool.
You'll need:
A Hacksaw or Reciprocating Saw
3/8" Open End Wrench
7/16" Open End Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver
Two Clevis Pins
Two Cotter Pins
Flat Washers to Match Clevis Pins
Four Wing Nuts
Step Three: Take the cut seat mounting bolt and front pillar screw to your local hardware store. Find four wing nuts that fit the screw. Find two Clevis Pins similar or or slightly larger in diameter than the original seat mounting bolt. Get two flat washers to match the Clevis pins, as well as two Cotter pins to match. [If you have a broken crosslink Jackson Kayak around, you can use the old seat attachment hardware instead of the Clevis Pins]
Step Four: Reinstall seat in the kayak. Attach the side mounts using the Clevis Pins inserted from the top with a washer. Once Clevis pin is through seat mounting bracket and seat, attach Cotter Pin. Put seat in desired position and lock in place with original plastic wing nut.
Step Five: Remove the 3/8" nuts from two screws at the bottom of the front pillar and replace with wingnuts from hardware store. Replace front top screw, using a wingnut instead of the original here too. Repeat on top screw of rear pillar, replacing 3/8" nut with wingnut.
Bonus Step Six: Now we're almost done, but as a bonus we can instantly take 1lb off the weight of the kayak. Remove the foot plates from the bulkhead system. Using a 7/16" wrench and phillips screwdriver, remove two screws and nuts from each foot plate. Recycle plastic and save the hardware for a random household task. Reinstall slightly smaller and considerably lighter foot plates in kayak. Having the foot block foam is important when using a kayak with the extra foot plate block removed. This setup gives the whole bulkhead more travel on massive pitons too.
You'll need:
A Hacksaw or Reciprocating Saw
3/8" Open End Wrench
7/16" Open End Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver
Two Clevis Pins
Two Cotter Pins
Flat Washers to Match Clevis Pins
Four Wing Nuts
Step one: Using 3/8" Wrench, feel
between the front of the plastic pillar and foam pillar, finding the
3/8" nut that the top screw is attached to. Push foam out of the way
and put 3/8" wrench on nut and remove with phillips screwdriver.
Step Two: Not for the faint of heart.
Using the hacksaw or reciprocating
saw with a metal cutting blade, cut horizontally between the seat and
permanent seat mount. Cut all the way through the impossible to remove
mounting bolt. If you're using a hacksaw this is going to take some
time. If using a reciprocating
saw make sure your blade isn't too long and cutting something you don't
want cut. Remove visible wing nut in front of seat and remove seat from
kayak, collecting all the loose pieces. If need be push old seat bolt
out of the side attachment point.
Step Three: Take the cut seat mounting bolt and front pillar screw to your local hardware store. Find four wing nuts that fit the screw. Find two Clevis Pins similar or or slightly larger in diameter than the original seat mounting bolt. Get two flat washers to match the Clevis pins, as well as two Cotter pins to match. [If you have a broken crosslink Jackson Kayak around, you can use the old seat attachment hardware instead of the Clevis Pins]
Step Four: Reinstall seat in the kayak. Attach the side mounts using the Clevis Pins inserted from the top with a washer. Once Clevis pin is through seat mounting bracket and seat, attach Cotter Pin. Put seat in desired position and lock in place with original plastic wing nut.
Step Five: Remove the 3/8" nuts from two screws at the bottom of the front pillar and replace with wingnuts from hardware store. Replace front top screw, using a wingnut instead of the original here too. Repeat on top screw of rear pillar, replacing 3/8" nut with wingnut.
Bonus Step Six: Now we're almost done, but as a bonus we can instantly take 1lb off the weight of the kayak. Remove the foot plates from the bulkhead system. Using a 7/16" wrench and phillips screwdriver, remove two screws and nuts from each foot plate. Recycle plastic and save the hardware for a random household task. Reinstall slightly smaller and considerably lighter foot plates in kayak. Having the foot block foam is important when using a kayak with the extra foot plate block removed. This setup gives the whole bulkhead more travel on massive pitons too.
Personal Taste: I like aggressive
thigh hooks, and take a 2"x6" triangle of foam and glue it to the top
most edge of the thigh hook, and cover it with gorilla tape after glue
has dried.
Now if you're out in the middle of nowhere and suffer a hull integrity problem, you can have (almost) full access to patch from the interior of the kayak.
Now if you're out in the middle of nowhere and suffer a hull integrity problem, you can have (almost) full access to patch from the interior of the kayak.