Day Three
In
many ways the third day of the Stikine is the inverse of the second
day. The second has many rapids, few of which are scouted or can be
portaged. On the third day every rapid is named, but there aren't as
many of them and all but one can be portaged.
Facing a massive exodus back to California on a time
schedule, we arose
early for the day. Our campsite under the overhang was not frozen,
which helped us motivate. Once on the beach though, temperatures were
the same if not colder than the previous day. I chipped the ice out of
my kayak and seal launched in. I was aghast as a thin sheet of water
partially froze to the deck of my boat. Good thing I brought pogies!
Thankfully on the start of the third
day the canyon is open and let in
some sunlight, making it feel warm.
Sunlight stayed with us as we scouted the first rapid of
day three: The
Wall 2. Good morning, good light, good adrenaline: the start of a cold
day.
Rush Sturges gets day three going on
The Wall 2
A nice big wave train with a crashing
wave hole at the bottom...Corey
Boux The Wall 2.
In the morning it had seemed like we
were out of the canyon and in the
open. Not quite. Below The Wall 2 the canyon was back in Grand Canyon
status and we were insignificant.
A short bit of whitewater had us out again at Scissors. I
a) scared of
Scissors thinking of Gerry Moffatt's infamous close call and b) curious
about how it got it's name.
I'm still not sure of how Scissors was originally named.
At our lower
flow Gerry's rock was out of play, but a massive hole flushed into two
rocks, reminiscent of an open pair of scissors. The two rocks funneled
the water right into a two foot wide crack between them. We all agreed
that you'd probably go through. As long as you weren't sideways.
Probably. Nodding my head to Gerry and respect for the river and saving
one for next time, I decided to walk scissors.
Rush Sturges must have made that
decision last time, and gave it a go.
As often happens in Scissors, the hole flipped Rush and he
came closer
than comfortable to the rocks, affirming my decision to walk. Below
Scissors we ran several large constricted cataracts, most of them were
fast wave trains around blind corners. Nice to know that someone up
front has an idea of what is around the corners! Several metal gauges
marked the bank in this section, a reminder of how close the canyon
came to being inundated.
Our next scout was for the Hole That Ate Chicago. I was
looking forward
to this one, a big hole that goes right through on the left...at the
right flows. Unfortunately we didn't have the right flows for it, and
not much was going through. If it had a big pool at the bottom, I don't
doubt we would have given it hell. Instead of a large pool, V-Drive,
the largest rapid of the Stikine would have to be swum. No thanks.
Our team makes a quick portage of The
Hole That Ate Chicago.
V-Drive is a massive rapid. Portaging on the right is an
undertaking of
equal size. Normally it's good to go down the center, but we'd talked
to a group who had been in at low flows before us and they portaged it.
The scout is high above on the right. So high up it gave us no scale of
the drop that happens in V-Drive. Portaging on the left like the lower
flow group looked terrible. Well the portage looked good. The ferry out
and off the left wall did not. Even if you got stuffed in the rapid it
looked like you'd end up at a better spot than from the left portage.
Locked in: the pool between the
Chicago eating hole and V-Drive.
Corey Boux and Charlie Center decide
to go first. Corey is down in the
hole there somewhere.
Corey and Charlie both vanished into the big crashing hole
but came
right through and paddled off the left wall. No one wanted to go alone,
but I wanted to get another photo of V-Drive so I'd either have to go
last or someone would go solo. It's a strange thing about big water,
the other person out there won't really help you, but somehow it feels
much safer paddling in pairs. Jonas said he'd take one for the team and
headed to his boat while Rush and I switched angles.
Jonas Grunwald: V-Drive
Scouting from above and watching video, it's just not
apparent how much
V-Drive drops. The whole volume of the river drops around thirty feet
over the final ramp into the hole. It's very fast and quite exciting.
Jonas Grunwald getting through some
hydraulics.
Rush and I were silent while packing up our camera gear. I
had the
perfect mix of excitement and apprehension. We peel out of the eddy
close together. Rush had a GoPro on so I assumed I was going first, and
he assumed the opposite. We quickly switched positions dropping in. At
the peak of each wave I watched for a wave hole on the right, once past
it I'd drive hard right. The wave hole flew by and I drove to the
right, gaining speed down the ramp and then all whiteout, hold on and
roll up, stay off the wall and give a big cheer.
Then it's over. There are one or two large rapids in the
paddle out,
but nothing walled in or as big.
Charlie Center and the confluence with
the Tanzilla River.
Tanzilla slot was every bit as tight as rumored. Unbelievable for so
much water to squeeze through something so small.
I'd been told the Stikine basically
had no flat water. Don't believe
that, it does have a paddle out.
Enthusiasm slightly dampened by the
chilly weather we were quiet at
take out. Successful trip on a beautiful river. Time to head home.
The Stikine is the finest big water class V in North
America. If you
haven't paddled big water class V before it will be terrifying. With a
good team and experience, it will be a true joy to run. Just don't make
any mistakes, because it's not forgiving.
We had flows around 250cms (8,800cfs) for our whole trip. While some of
the in between sections were easier, both veterans agreed that The Wall
and V-Drive, two of the largest mandatory rapids, were tougher.
Telegraph
Take Out on Google Maps